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Author's note: This is a third and last attempt at posting this story. Previous two got insta removed for some reason. Definitely not because of carma or age, I have posted stories here already.
A dimly lit room was fully packed with agents, researchers, their assistants and administration representatives. Main holographic projector, synchronized with a few smaller ones and a couple of mind wave transmitters, all distributed a single header:
“Species study report number 17d80412. Summary”
Speaker soon took control of the projectors, activating a presentation. As their voice, enhanced by projectors, filled the room, so did the mind waves bearing the same information.
- Good afternoon, everyone! Today we take a look at species 0E420350, or as most of them call themselves, Humans.
An image of a bipedal creature appeared on projectors.
- All of us here were studying those species for the past three cycles. For the newest colleagues I’ll clarify that this summary is a knowledge-pooling between groups that studied different aspects and variations of subjects. A way to bring everyone up to speed and provide insight into what 0E420350 represents.
- Humans are a multiversal species. So far we’ve encountered their traces in 99.6% of applicable Universes. This is the second highest encounter rate of multiversal species. Right after our own species, inhabiting all 100% of applicable Universes discovered so far.
- Surprisingly, in all discovered cases, us and humans never have met. We are always too far apart on a development scale. Either Humans are too early, or too late for meaningful communication. And in rare cases when our species are in close range on the development scale, we are always too far away to interact. Some of you may suggest that we just find the most developed human civilization and establish multiversal contact, but there are reasons against it, which I’ll explain later on.
As the speaker transmitted, diagrams, statistics and research reports were displayed on projectors.
- We won’t dwell on human physical properties. Those are unremarkable at best. Even slightest tweaks of the physical conditions would kill a human in almost all cases, or cause severe damage to their mental state.
- What we would focus on is their multiversal cognitive receiving ability. Expressed in a form of abstraction called arts, humans produced countless snapshots of all multiverses.
- Those snapshots are extremely accurate, and there exists at least one for each single universe we know of. Due to the abstract nature of those, assigning them to trier corresponding moments of Universe-Space-Time have been difficult before Doctor Thyschm group submitted the Multiversal Clarification of History Algorithm with Multi Meaning Elaboration Release. With it, we determined the exact USP moment for 87% of collected snapshots.
- Of course the vast majority of their arts are focused around their own species and variations of their history. But there are still incredibly many snapshots where humans are not even mentioned. Interestingly enough, we have found a snapshot of this exact presentation. You can find it in archive 145xcm9.
- Before you rush shuffling archive files though, I want to remind you of first and second Palak principles. First, precognitive description does not negate individual agency. It is a personal decision to let events happen in an individual's universe.
- Second, mental effects of encountering precognitive description are always to be taken into account. Self-fulfilling prophecy is a product of insufficient analysis of the situation on a personal level.
- Taking that into account, you could access the archives and research for yourself. Our Data Categorization group has developed a code system for ease of navigation and focusing.
Large blocks of color-coded data appeared on projectors.
- Code 0047AB marks the topics of mind study and self-reflection. 1E8449 is for environmental interactions. A93226 is the most expansive, conflict. C39BD3 is the second biggest, benevolent personal interaction. Speaks a lot about their psychology, huh?
- FDFEFE is specifically marked as multiversal interpretations. I suggest you all take a brief look into it. What you should avoid is 17202A. This category is an infinite downward spiral that is considered borderline hazardous. It can be described with one word - Meta.
- Apparently the human brain is susceptible to this kind of thought lines, and can lead itself into infinite layering of abstractions. Research of this category is considered a wasteful activity. If you still want to take a look into it, it is strongly recommended to use memetic correction setup. But even with said setup, I urge you not to go deeper than “Commentary on commentary” level. Don’t be another Uto Pha Ttom Ato. He rode the meta train all the way to the void.
Most of the researchers present nodded with understanding. Whispers of “mad lad” could be heard around the room.
- For the last, we are moving onto the topic of interaction. Our policy for the time being is full no-contact observation. You can read the full report on your own, but two main reasons are the following.
- First. Humans easily descend into conflicting behavior. And being the species with subconscious meta knowledge, they seem to find loopholes in most of the situations. I do not say they are undefeatable, we have seen a lot of them being destroyed across the multiverse. But chances are higher for them to at least outlast the opponent if not achieve decisive victory. Conflict with them is deemed undesirable by the commonwealth resources distribution council.
- Second, human meta knowledge seems to provide better quality insight about universes differing from their own. We attribute that to the idea that their brains have easier time receiving ideas they have no solid knowledge about. Taking that into account, it has been decided that we would pay special attention to arts that relate to our own civilization. Look via the beholder's eye, so to speak.
- On that note, I’m ending that report. If you have any questions, you are free to ask now. Otherwise you can return to your work. Next summary report would occur in three cycles. Have a good day.

dApp designedevelopers are responsible for designing and developing decentralized applications (dApps) that interact with blockchain networks. Read on for more information about dApp developers, including qualifications, background, salaries, and other relevant details:
​
Qualifications and Background:
- Educational Background: A bachelor's or master's degree in computer science, software engineering, or a related field is commonly preferred. However, practical experience, certifications, and a strong portfolio of dApp projects can also be valuable.
- Proficient in Web Development: Strong skills in front-end web development languages such as HTML, CSS, and JavaScript are essential for building user interfaces and creating engaging user experiences in dApps.
- Familiarity with Blockchain Fundamentals: Understanding the basics of blockchain technology, smart contracts, and decentralized protocols is important to design and develop dApps that leverage the benefits of blockchain networks.
- Knowledge of Blockchain Platforms and Tools: Familiarity with popular blockchain platforms like Ethereum, Polkadot, or Binance Smart Chain, along with associated development frameworks like Truffle or Hardhat, is valuable for dApp development.
​
Additional Skills and Attributes:
- Experience with Web3 Libraries: Proficiency in using libraries like web3.js, ethers.js, or similar tools to interact with blockchain networks from dApps.
- Smart Contract Integration: Understanding how to integrate dApps with smart contracts on the blockchain, allowing the dApp to interact with the decentralized system securely and efficiently.
- User Experience (UX) Design: Ability to design intuitive and user-friendly interfaces for dApps, considering user flows, responsiveness, and accessibility.
- Testing and Debugging: Competence in testing methodologies and tools specific to dApps, including unit testing, end-to-end testing, and debugging in the decentralized environment.
- Collaboration and Communication: Strong teamwork and communication skills are important as dApp developers often collaborate with cross-functional teams, including designers, blockchain developers, and project managers.
​
Salaries (health warning: may not apply in your country!):
Salaries for dApp developers can vary depending on factors such as location, experience, industry demand, and the complexity of the projects involved. Generally, dApp developers earn competitive salaries due to the specialized nature of the role and the growing demand for decentralized applications. Entry-level salaries typically range from $60,000 to $90,000 per year, while experienced professionals can earn well over $100,000 annually.
​
Salaries can also be influenced by factors such as the size and reputation of the company, the scope of responsibilities, and the specific technology stack required for dApp development.
​
Continued Learning and Professional Development:
As with any technology-related field, continued learning and professional development are crucial for dApp developers. Staying up-to-date with the latest trends, frameworks, and tools in blockchain and web development is essential. Actively engaging in the blockchain community, attending conferences, participating in hackathons, and contributing to open-source projects can help expand your knowledge and network.
​
Note that building a portfolio of dApps, showcasing your design and development skills, and highlighting your ability to create user-friendly experiences can greatly enhance your marketability as a dApp developer.

Blockchain developers play a crucial role in designing and implementing decentralized applications (dApps) and smart contracts on blockchain platforms. Here's some additional information about blockchain developers, including qualifications, background, salaries, and other relevant details:
​
Qualifications and Background:
- Educational Background: A bachelor's or master's degree in computer science, software engineering, or a related field is commonly preferred. However, practical experience, certifications, and demonstrated proficiency in blockchain development can also be valuable.
- Programming Skills: Proficiency in programming languages such as Solidity (for Ethereum), Vyper, or JavaScript is essential. Experience with languages like Python, Go, or Rust can also be beneficial.
- Understanding of Blockchain Concepts: A deep understanding of blockchain fundamentals, distributed ledger technology, smart contracts, and decentralized protocols is necessary to excel in this role.
- Experience with Blockchain Platforms: Familiarity with popular blockchain platforms like Ethereum, Polkadot, or Binance Smart Chain, as well as their associated development frameworks and tools, is important.
​
Additional Skills and Attributes:
- Solidity Smart Contract Development: Proficiency in writing secure and efficient smart contracts using Solidity, including knowledge of common patterns, libraries, and best practices.
- Web Development: Knowledge of front-end web development languages (HTML, CSS, JavaScript) is valuable for building user interfaces for blockchain applications.
- DApp Development: Experience in developing decentralized applications (dApps) that interact with blockchain networks using web3.js, ethers.js, or similar libraries.
- Understanding of Cryptography: Familiarity with cryptographic principles and protocols used in blockchain systems, such as digital signatures, hashing, encryption, and key management.
- Problem-Solving and Analytical Skills: The ability to identify and troubleshoot issues, write efficient and optimized code, and solve complex problems related to blockchain development.
- Collaboration and Communication: Working in cross-functional teams and effectively communicating technical concepts to non-technical stakeholders is important in blockchain development projects.
​
Salaries (caution - may not apply in your country!):
Blockchain developer salaries can vary widely depending on factors such as location, experience, industry demand, and the complexity of the projects involved. In general, blockchain developers command competitive salaries due to the specialized nature of the role and the demand for their skills. Entry-level salaries for blockchain developers typically range from $70,000 to $100,000 per year, while experienced professionals can earn well over $150,000 annually.
It's worth noting that salaries can be higher in regions with a high concentration of blockchain-related companies or in areas experiencing a shortage of skilled blockchain developers.
​
Continued Learning and Professional Development:
The blockchain industry is rapidly evolving, and staying up-to-date with the latest advancements, tools, and protocols is crucial for blockchain developers. Engaging with the developer community, attending blockchain conferences, participating in hackathons, and pursuing certifications (such as Certified Blockchain Developer) can enhance your knowledge and marketability.
Gaining experience by contributing to open-source blockchain projects or developing your own decentralized applications can showcase your skills and help you build a strong portfolio.
​
As the blockchain industry expands, the demand for skilled blockchain developers is expected to grow. By honing your blockchain development skills, staying current with the latest technologies, and demonstrating a strong understanding of blockchain concepts, you can position yourself for a rewarding and lucrative career in blockchain development.
​

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A key trend that arose in Late Neolithic SLBMC architecture was the appearance of a rectangular architectural style. This style of architecture spread rapidly during the period, and soon became the dominant style of construction amongst SLBMC settlements. The exact reasons for this are not entirely clear, but there have been a number of theories proposed.
Reasons for development
There have been a number of reasons put forward as to why the rectangular style arose, and why it became such a common feature of SLBMC villages. Rectangular floorplans appeared to be quicker to construct when building large, more permanent structures - building a large longhouse would have required less material and fewer internal posts than building an increasingly large circular structure. The improved structural integrity provided by square corners provides a reasonable explanation as to why they simply did not elongate the existing elliptical style structures to solve this problem.
Structures began to become larger to accommodate the needs of increasingly large communities; a key part of this was the appearance of relatively central, and quite large communal structures in larger villages. The development of wooden pegs made fastening timber structures together easier, and the connections between timbers more sturdy; previous methods of fastening structures would have relied on rope lashings and interlocking timbers for connection strength; wooden pegs provided additional strength to key structural connections.
Applications
Rectangular architecture did not become immediately dominant among SLBMC sites; it appears that some of its earliest applications were in the construction of raised granaries; this is confirmed by an exemplar section of raised plank flooring and a support, complete with wooden fastening pegs, found preserved in a bog. It is unclear as to what, if any significance there was to the rectangular or square shape of these granaries. It is possible that they were easier to construct and sturdier than raised round granaries that had preceded them. Although this theory is speculative at best, there is some evidence to support it; most examples of these rectangular granaries show fewer structural support posts for a given size of structure (generally four corner posts in all but the largest of examples) than the round ground-level and raised granaries which had preceded them. Whatever the reason for the style of construction, these raised granaries allowed for far greater security of grain stores, with the raised platform keeping grain further removed from vermin and moisture than at ground level.
Similarly, utility buildings such as general storehouses, and the contemporaries developed smokehouses began to follow the development of these rectangular granaries. The key distinction between a general storehouse and a smokehouse is generally the presence of one or more hearths within the confines of the structure.
Rectangular floorplans next began to become commonplace among the larger homes within settlements. More prominent families would have had greater resources to put towards constructing large homes, which was one of the key reasons for the development of rectangular housing as previously mentioned. As time went on and the method became more commonplace, almost all dwellings with a length greater than 5m - 6m were constructed with a rectangular shape.
Smaller homes still tended to followed the older elliptical style; it appears as though the economics of their construction (larger internal area for a given perimeter) still outweighed those of the rectangular style for smaller homes.
The peak examples of the rectangular architecture of the period were the communal longhouses which began to appear in the larger villages of the period. These structures were roughly centrally located, and are believed to have been used for various events and gatherings within communities. They did not appear to serve as a permanent dwelling for any one family in particular, though they may have hosted guests or families when needed. Rectangular architecture allowed for them to reach relatively impressive sizes compared to previous buildings; the largest buildings found dating to the period have been up to 30m long and 6m wide. Some appear to have been built with raised flooring; others with floors at or below ground level.

https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/fFhBNc
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PCPartPicker Part List

Type	Item	Price
CPU	AMD Ryzen 5 7600X 4.7 GHz 6-Core Processor	$309.98 @ Amazon Canada
CPU Cooler	Deepcool AK400 ZERO DARK 66.47 CFM CPU Cooler	$54.50 @ Vuugo
Motherboard	Gigabyte B650 GAMING X AX ATX AM5 Motherboard	$264.99 @ Amazon Canada
Memory	G.Skill Ripjaws S5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory	$149.97 @ Newegg Canada
Storage	*Kingston NV2 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive	$112.97 @ Amazon Canada
Video Card	*Sapphire 21323-01-20G Radeon RX 7900 XT 20 GB Video Card	$1099.88 @ Canada Computers
Case	Corsair Carbide Series Air 540 ATX Mid Tower Case	-
Power Supply	*Thermaltake Toughpower GF3 TT Premium 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply	$119.99 @ Memory Express
Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
Total	$2112.28
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-06-10 06:40 EDT-0400

Hi team,
Appreciate your feedback on this new build (upgrading from GTX770).
I already have a case. Corsair 540.
​
Thank you for your help!
​
​

1. What will you be doing with this PC? Be as specific as possible, and include specific games (ex: resolution, FPS, settings) or programs you will be using.

• Mostly playing games. Diablo 4, Future fallouts, Fortnite and The Division type of games

2. What is your maximum PRE-TAX budget before rebates and shipping?

• $2600

3. When do you plan on building/buying the PC? Note: beyond a week or two from today means any build you receive will be out of date when you want to buy.

• Now

4. What, exactly, do you need included in the budget? (ex: toweOS/monitokeyboard/mouse/etc)

• Tower, Monitor, OS

5. If reusing any parts (including monitor(s)/keyboard/mouse/etc), what parts will you be reusing? How old are they? Brands and models are appreciated.

• Reusing keyboard (corsair k70), mouse (corsair) and headset (steelseries) and WIFI card Asus AC2100.Also reusing some SSDs. But would like the new NV2?

6. Will you be overclocking (ex: CPU/GPU/RAM)? If yes, are you interested in overclocking right away, or down the line?

• No

7. Are there any specific features or items you want/need in the build? (ex: SSDs, mass HDDs, Wi-Fi / Bluetooth, VR, VirtualLink, tensor cores, large amount of storage or a RAID setup, CUDA or OpenCL support, etc.)

• I need wifi because I can't wire computer. But, I already have a wifi card Asus Ac2100.

8. Do you have any specific case preferences (ex: mITX/mATX/mid-towefull-tower sizes, styles, colours, window or not, LED lighting, etc.), or a particular color theme preference for the components?

• Unless you can convince me that a mATX is completely fine, I was thinking a ATX. Better cooling and more space?

9. Do you need a copy of Windows included in the budget? Note: some post-secondary students can get Windows 10 for free at OnTheHub or through their school's IT software distribution department.

• I will need windows 11

10. Will you be upgrading this PC in the future (ie: will you swap out better parts later on or will you build an entirely new tower later)? If so, when?

• I don't think so. My current build GTX770 only got upgraded with SSD. I rather spend a bit more money and keep my computer for some extra years. Then upgrading continuously.

11. Do you have a brand preference? (ex: AMD/Intel for CPUs, AMD/NVIDIA for video cards, etc.)

• Not really. Just want best value (performance to price)

12. What are the specs of your old PC / laptop? Do you want to see if it can be upgraded instead? If so, paste its build from PCPartPicker here.

• Too old to be upgraded.

13. Extra info or particulars:

• Really keen on advice on a good monitor.

Hello !
I'm a french photojournalist working mainly in France on social issues.
Every day, with my coffee, I check out the various French and international media in search of stories. I spend a lot of time on the various subreddits, and that's fascinating!
But it's always frustrating because, in the end, the best stories are the ones you find when you meet people in the field, by talking to them, by being curious :)
I'm convinced that the problems and initiatives that take place at local level are essential and that they hold the true identity of your country.
For me, Reddit is a bit of a cross between these 2 things. Echoes from the street (and the fields) told by real people that I can read from home.
That's why I thought I could call on the Reddit community to help me build a new documentary: a research project focusing on local social issues.
So I'm throwing a bottle into the sea.
If you know of any social issues or initiatives going on in your area, I'd love to hear from you! They could be environmental issues, inequalities, education, health, diversity, social justice or any other subject that has a significant impact on society.

The Dutch independent investigative journalism platform 'Follow the Money' wrote a article about Patagonia.
"Sustainable clothing brand Patagonia manufactures in the same factories as fast-fashion; textile workers are being exploited"
Clothing brand Patagonia seems to be doing everything right: for its employees, for the people who make the clothes and for the environment. The company’s image – they say they’re in business to save our home planet – is very different from fast-fashion brands like asos, Primark and Nike. But Patagonia’s clothes are manufactured in exactly the same factories and under the same deplorable conditions.
When Yvon Chouinard started creating climbing equipment in his parents’ backyard in Burbank, California, he used steel. Soon he earned a reputation for making the ‘best’ climbing equipment in America. But every time a climber slammed one of those steel pegs into a rock, the gap got a little bigger and eventually unusable. Chouinard realised he was making money by destroying the rocks and therefore also the sport. And so he switched to aluminium blocks, which did not damagethe rocks.
The change was expensive and risky for the young company, but the moral dilemma was reason enough for Chouinard to implement the change. And to be very outspoken about it. It was a success: within a year, 40 per cent of the US climbing community stopped using steel.
Chouinard applied this experience when he started the outdoor brand Patagonia in 1973. He wanted to make only high-quality clothing that would last. And limit the impact on the environment as much as possible. In 1996, the brand switched to 100 per cent organic cotton, only to increasingly replace it with recycled materials. But the responsibility that Chouinard attributed to the company extended further.
In 2002 he decided to give one per cent of sales to environmental organisations every year. In 2011, Patagonia placed a full-page ad in the New York Times calling on consumers to ‘not buy this jacket’ in order to draw attention to the problematic nature of overconsumption in the clothing industry.
In addition, the clothing had to be manufactured fairly: in 2012, the top of the company made paying living wages to everyone who makes Patagonia products a ‘priority’. In 2020, Patagonia launched a campaign encouraging consumers to demand more from clothing brands: ‘Demand recycled. Demand organic. Demand Fair Trade,’ Patagonia urged its viewers.
In 2022, the then 84-year-old Chouinard caused worldwide astonishment, when he gave away 98 per cent of his shares to a newly formed NGO, the Holdfast Collective, which is ‘committed in its fight against the environmental crisis and protecting nature.’ Henceforth, the company’s profits would no longer flow to himself or his children but to the climate. ‘Earth is now our only shareholder,’ Chouinard said. Billionaire gives company away to climate, newspapers like The New York Times, The Washington Post and The Guardian reported*.*
This construction saved the NGO an estimated 700 million dollars that Chouinard would have had to pay in tax if he had sold the company and donated the proceeds to the same NGO. But according to Chouinard, this option allowed him to do something else: protect Patagonia’s values. Because he did not give the voting shares to Holdfast Collective but to a family trust. This allows his family to continue determining the company’s direction.
The company’s turnover – its European headquarters are in Amsterdam − grew by more than 50 per cent that year to about 1.5 billion dollars.
The actions earned Patagonia an image as being the ultimate sustainable frontrunner. In April, Time Magazine named Chouinard one of the world’s 100 most influential people. ‘Patagonia is a company people look up to in awe,’ the magazine wrote.
The complete opposite of Patagonia is a company like Primark. The Irish retail chain is known for selling on-trend low-quality clothes at low prices. Its revenue model is based on mass: high volumes with low margins.
Primark continuously creates new garment collections designed to be worn only a few times, after which they fall apart. The company uses advertising, clearance sales and influencers to urge consumers to keep buying as much as possible.
Media regularly report on the subsequent consequences. One, in particular, is that the people who make the clothes suffer from high production pressure at low cost. ‘Primark supplier accused of locking up factory workers in Myanmar protests,’ The Guardian headline read in 2021. That same year, The Clean Clothes Campaign NGO wrote: ‘Primark uses pandemic to put further pressure on factory workers in manufacturing countries.’
Patagonia and Primark seem like two extremes on the slow versus fast-fashion spectrum. Yet the brands have something in common. Some of their clothing is manufactured in the exact same factory.
PATAGONIA IN AMSTERDAM In 2014, Patagonia moved its European headquarters from Annecy town in the French Alps to Amsterdam. Reflecting on this, current CEO Ryan Gellert told the city marketing website I Amsterdam: ‘We established headquarters here in 2014 because we wanted a place where we could attract and retain pan-European and global talent, [...] and where there was an active community working on sustainability issues. As we searched potential locations across Europe, Amsterdam remained high on our list.’
According to Tax Law Professor Jan van de Streek, tax benefits may also have played a role in the choice of the Netherlands. This is because Patagonia did not register in the Netherlands as a BV but as a cooperative with two US members: Patagonia International Inc and Patagonia Global LLC. ‘Why choose something as strange as a cooperative structure?’ Van de Streek remarks to Follow the Money. ‘Because it is exempt from dividend tax. I think it’s naive to think there’s any other reason for that.’
Responding to questions about this, Patagonia said: ‘Since its inception, Patagonia Europe Coöperatief has paid regular corporate income taxes in all European countries where we do business, including the Netherlands, and has never used the tax efficiencies of a cooperative.’
‘At the suggestion of our advisors', Patagonia chose a cooperative structure ‘because it's the most flexible type of entity that suited our business purpose. However, Patagonia has chosen not to pursue any of the tax advantages available under the cooperative entity type. Patagonia Europe has not paid dividends to its parent company.'

‘No difference’

That factory is called Regal Image and is located in Sri Lanka. To be precise, in the Free Trade Zone of Katunayake, less than two kilometres from the international airport. The industrial estate is guarded 24/7 by Sri Lankan police. Access is only possible with a special pass.
In the factory hall, there are long tables with pieces of white fabric on them. An employee walks past with sea-green paint and a stencil forming the letters ‘asics’. Further along, a machine prints a grey logo on a purple tank top for Decathlon.
‘So far, we don’t really notice any difference between working with Patagonia and working with Primark or Decathlon,’ says Kevin Fernando. Fernando is the manager at the factory, which dyes, prints or embroiders logos and prints on fabrics. Regal Image was recently approved as a supplier to Patagonia, a process that took nine months. Fernando shows the designs for the 2024 summer collection. Light blue fabric features ‘Patagonia’ in pink letters, and a rainbow is printed on orange fabric.
‘Like most clothing companies, we do not make our products, nor do we own any of the factories that do,’ Patagonia writes on its website about the decision to outsource the manufacturing process. ‘We design, test, market and sell Patagonia gear. These are our areas of strength. We pay other companies [...] to produce fabrics and do the actual cutting and sewing.’

‘No control over working conditions’

Patagonia promises to only partner with factories that are ‘like-minded’ and who share their ‘philosophy.’ Patagonia has found sixty-one suitable factories: two in the US, one in Portugal and the remainder in 12 different low-wage countries. The bulk of the products are made in Vietnam and Sri Lanka.
At least two-thirds of the factories that manufacture Patagonia clothing also work for clothing brands that, according to the consumer website Good on You, have little or no sustainability policies in place (Patagonia itself is touted by Good on You as sustainable). This is evident from an analysis by Follow the Money based on data from Open Supply Hub, which aims to make supply chains in the clothing industry more transparent.
One day people make clothing for Patagonia, and the next day, they make items for brands such as GAP, Levi Strauss, Calvin Klein, Hugo Boss, Tommy Hilfiger, Nike, Amer Sports, Asics, US department store chain Target, e-commerce platform Amazon, supermarket Aldi and fast-fashion icons ASOS, Boohoo, H&M and Zara.
‘How is this possible?’ visual culture professor Anneke Smelik responds. Smelik researches sustainable fashion at Radboud University. ‘I know Patagonia as the most sustainable brand out there. I expected them to manufacture in small factories close to home. This means they have absolutely no control over working conditions.’
PATAGONIA IN SRI LANKA Patagonia works with 14 factories in Sri Lanka that are part of (or partner with) two companies: MAS Holdings and the Hirdaramani Group.
MAS Holdings was founded in 1987 by three brothers: Mahesh, Ajay and Sharad Amalean. The company began manufacturing lingerie and later expanded to sportswear, swimwear and T-shirts. With factories in 17 countries and roughly 2.4 billion dollars in turnover by 2022, MAS is Sri Lanka’s largest clothing manufacturer. The Amalean brothers are among the wealthiest men in the country.
The company emphatically presents itself as a sustainable clothing manufacturer. For instance, the company promises to emit 25 per cent less CO2 by 2025 than in 2019, and CEO Suren Fernando expects the group to earn half its revenue from sustainable products by then.
In May 2023, MAS received a Presidential Environment Award from President Ranil Wickremesinghe for the company’s commitment to the environment. The company describes the welfare of its employees as ‘its top priority’. On the subject of paying a living wage, the company makes no promises.
In the early 1900s, Parmanand Hirdaramani, then 16 years old, started a clothing shop in Sri Lanka’s capital Colombo. Today, his great-grandson Aroon Hirdaramani runs the Hirdaramani Group, which has grown into an international clothing conglomerate with factories in Sri Lanka, Bangladesh and Vietnam and a turnover of around 900 million US dollars.
Hirdaramani also presents itself as a sustainable producer. The company’s website states: ‘At Hirdaramani, we do the right thing. We have always done that. It’s about making good decisions today that benefit everyone in the long run.’
Since 2019, all Hirdaramani factories in Sri Lanka have been producing climate neutrally. For 2025, the company has set several targets on material use, water use, waste and leadership. Paying a living or higher wage is not a target.
In 2016, Aroon Hirdaramani and his wife Mona surfaced in the Pandora Papers. It emerged that Hirdaramani owned two investment companies in the British Virgin Islands. The reason for this is unclear. The fact is that companies based there do not have to pay tax on income, profits, dividends and interest, among other things.

Sixteen-hour workdays

Eligibility to manufacture Patagonia products requires a supplier to meet a list of sustainability criteria. Those criteria are set out in a code of conduct for suppliers. For example, child labour, forced labour, or physical, sexual or verbal harassment are not allowed. All national laws must be respected. Suppliers must respect workers’ right to freedom of association, may not force workers to work overtime and must ensure healthy working conditions. Working weeks of more than 60 hours or more than six days in a row is not acceptable to Patagonia.
Patagonia checks whether a factory complies with these standards through independent auditor visits at least once a year, says the brand after being questioned by Follow the Money. Checks are also carried out by the Fair Labor Association (FLA) and FairTrade: two NGOs that provide Patagonia’s manufacturing process and clothing with a sustainability label.
A part of those audits is public. Since 2016, the FLA has publishedassessments of seven Patagonia factories, including three in Vietnam, three in Sri Lanka and one in China. During those inspections, auditors found dozens of violations, varying greatly in severity.
For instance, almost 2000 employees at a factory in Vietnam were paid less for their overtime than what they should have received and employees’ ages were not recorded (thus child labour cannot be ruled out). Another check found out that applicants had to provide their menstrual date. Employees told the interviewers they were not allowed to become pregnant in the first six months of their employment. Less serious violations dealt with issues such as working without protective equipment, blocked emergency exits, or a lack of policies on harassment or discrimination.
One problem crops up in every report. Textile workers in factories manufacturing clothes for Patagonia work far longer hours than legally permitted: up to 17 hours a day and more than 80 hours a week, well beyond what is permissible according to Patagonia’s code of conduct.
‘Long working hours with insufficient breaks often lead to health problems,’ the Clean Clothes Campaign recently wrote about this issue. ‘Managers pressure employees to work 10- to 12-hour and sometimes even 16- to 18-hour days. The number of hours increases as the deadline approaches. Those who protest are simply fired. Moreover, workers depend on overtime to supplement their low wages.’
At the Regal Image factory in Sri Lanka, manager Fernando assures that his employees work a maximum of five days a week and 10 hours a day. But during the tour, a line manager starts talking about the duration of his shift: from eight in the morning to a quarter to 10 in the evening – almost 14 hours. ‘It’s busy,’ says Fernando, casually.
‘This is what the fast-fashion model does,’ says Smelik. ‘Brands want their products to be in store within a few weeks. So when a factory receives an order from such a brand, the production targets and overtime skyrocket.’

‘They talk to us like we are animals’

The office of Stand Up Lanka, a union led by Ashila Niroshine Dandeniya, is located just outside the Free-Trade Zone. She started working in a MAS factory, part of MAS Holdings that is a supplier to Patagonia, in 2003. Her colleagues elected her to represent them as a member of the factory’s employees council. But when she addressed the matter of wages, she was fired. She challenged her dismissal, got compensation, and discovered that there were laws in place to protect people like her.
Now, almost 20 years later, she knows Sri Lankan labour law like the back of her hand. Her office is a hexagon with five windows, all open. Textile workers from nearby factories approach her via these windows to greet her or ask for help.
When a transman walks past, she says, ‘He applied to MAS Shadowline [one of Patagonia’s suppliers, ed] a month ago. They said they didn’t want him because he is transgender. He can’t get work anywhere. And he cannot go back to his village because he is Muslim. His family will shoot him.’
When about six women wearing yellow MAS polos come and ask for a food parcel, Dandeniya shakes her head. ‘We don’t have enough. Since the country’s economic crisis, some families barely eat two meals a day. How am I supposed to choose who can eat and who can’t?’
That evening, she introduces Priya (31). Priya has been working for MAS Shadowline for almost two years, sewing the side seams on leggings or T-shirts. She makes many clothes for yoga brand Lululemon and for Lacoste (famous through the crocodile logo), but sometimes also for Patagonia.
‘The worst part is the scolding,’ she says in her home a few streets away: a room of about 12 square metres. It contains a double bed, a small kitchenette and a wardrobe. Despite the fan on the wall, it is sweltering hot inside. She shares a toilet and a shower with others.
‘My supervisor’s manager is a terrible man. He touches everyone in a bad way, and if you say you don’t want that, you have a problem. He yells at me if I have to go to the bank or the doctor. “Then who will do the work? Who will meet the target?” And he’s not the only one. They talk to us like we are animals.’
When asked about her production targets, she breathes a deep sigh. ‘The other day, Lululemon placed a huge order, and now everyone is stressed. On the first day, we had to make seventy items per hour, but on the second day, it was suddenly a hundred. Otherwise, we won’t make the delivery date.’ During the working day, she does not drink water so that she does not waste time going to the toilet. Despite this, she seldom meets the target. And that means: no bonus.
Without that bonus, Priya earns 32,000 rupees a month (97 euros). Her room costs 7,000 rupees (21 euros), and a meal 300 rupees (1 euro). She has no money left for other things.
‘Since the crisis, we are increasingly hearing stories from our members of textile workers using drugs,’ says Dandeniya. ‘Also in MAS factories that Patagonia works with. They use it to work faster. Sometimes also against the hunger.’
Chamila Thushari, union leader of Dabindu Collective, confirms the story. ‘They use Ice (Crystal Meth) or Babul.’ She points to her collar and to the sole of her shoe. ‘This is how they smuggle it in. The management knows this happens but allows it. All they care about is production targets are being met.’
An employee of a third union, GTZ-GSEU, confirms that drug use among textile workers in the Free Trade Zone is a problem.
Patagonia says these claims are ‘new’ to them and ‘serious’, but says, without evidence, it cannot comment.

A living wage

That Patagonia, known for being sustainable, has its clothes manufactured in the same factories as other much less sustainable brands is seen as an advantage by the company. ‘Patagonia has a powerful brand voice, but we are a quite small player in the apparel sector. Therefore, we are always looking for ways to scale our impact and to elevate the industry standards across the board, bringing other apparel retailers along on the journey with us. So, continuing to engage in shared production facilities is crucial to this work.’
Patagonia wants all people who make clothes to earn a decent wage. In 2015, the company promised that within 10 years, all employees in its supply chain would be earning a living wage that would be enough to live on. That is, enough for food, water, housing, education, healthcare, transport and other essential needs.
With 18 months to go, only 40 per cent of its factories pay a living wage, according to Patagonia. They would not reveal the factories concerned. Suppliers reportedly ‘have the right to maintain their factories’ wage data confidential’.
Patagonia wants all people who make clothes to earn a decent wage. In 2015, the company promised that within 10 years, all employees in its supply chain would be earning a living wage that would be enough to live on. That is, enough for food, water, housing, education, healthcare, transport and other essential needs.
With 18 months to go, only 40 per cent of its factories pay a living wage, according to Patagonia. They would not reveal the factories concerned. Suppliers reportedly ‘have the right to maintain their factories’ wage data confidential’.
To determine a living wage, Patagonia uses the Anker Research Institute’s calculation method. According to that method, you can live decently in urban Sri Lanka if you earn a minimum of 83,231 Sri Lankan rupees (263 euro) a month. Priya’s salary does not even cover half that. And at the recently approved Regal Image print factory, the basic wage is even lower: 21,000 rupees (66 euro), says Fernando.
Thulsi Narayanasamy is frustrated by Patagonia’s approach to sustainability. She is director of advocacy at the Worker Rights Consortium, an independent non-profit organization that monitors and investigates labor conditions in the global apparel and textile industry. ‘Patagonia spends millions on green initiatives. Why can’t they pay the people who make their clothes properly?’
Patagonia says it ‘has no authority over how much textile workers get paid, as they are in no way, shape or form the employer of these workers.’ Narayanasamy, however, is convinced Patagonia can pay a living wage, if the brand would want to. ‘They could bring production in-house or pay more to suppliers that’s ringfenced for wages high enough to achieve a living income. It’s so well established that brand’s pricing practices directly impact wage levels, it’s a fallacy to deny this.’
‘I think we should ask ourselves: why don't clothing brands have their own factories?’ She asks the question, then answers it. 'Brands don't want to be responsible for the people who produce their clothes. All brands benefit from that, including Patagonia.
RESPONSE FROM PATAGONIA When asked why it does not pay its suppliers more for decent wages for workers, Patagonia replied: ‘Relying on one brand to simply cover the gap is a band-aid solution and does not serve the factory in the long run. If the one brand that pays the gap were to leave the factory, then those wages for workers would go away, leaving the factory with a shortfall they would not be able to cover. Additionally, if the brand just writes a check to the factory, then there is no guarantee that the money would go towards workers’ wages. The brand has no authority over how much workers get paid as they are in no way, shape or form the employer of those workers.’
About the long working hours, Patagonia says: ‘Excessive overtime is pervasive globally, which is why it is audited regularly. If we find a problem that can be resolved, we work with our factory partners to implement sustainable solutions. This can take many years, but we find this is the best outcome for the workers and the factory.’
In response to the allegations about drug use among textile workers, Patagonia says: ‘These are serious and new allegations, however without evidence, we are not able to comment on them. We are continuing to conduct our ongoing monitoring program and we remain committed to addressing systemic issues to ensure workers’ wellbeing across our supply chain.’
Link to the article: https://www.ftm.eu/articles/sustainable-clothing-brand-patagonia-uses-same-suppliers-fast-fashion-brands-do-workers-exploited?share=p8cq84oSmbUiJtEQUObUZSPZh8ZNReEKHj0wGJnBMQUMqLcwK9PC1kpMJCev5Mo%3D%26utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=sharebuttonnietleden&utm_source=linkbutton
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Mail Id: [email protected]
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Border Gateway Protocol (BGP) is a critical routing protocol that plays a pivotal role in enabling communication and connectivity across the internet. As the primary protocol used by internet service providers (ISPs) and large-scale networks, BGP performs several crucial functions that facilitate efficient routing, traffic management, and network stability. In this article, we will delve into the key functions of BGP, shedding light on their significance and impact on the global internet infrastructure.
Autonomous System (AS) Path Selection:
BGP's foremost function is to determine the best path for routing data packets across multiple autonomous systems. Autonomous systems are individual networks or organizations with unique routing policies and control. BGP evaluates various attributes, such as AS path length, origin, and path cost, to select the most optimal path for data transmission. By employing sophisticated algorithms, BGP ensures efficient routing and load balancing among multiple available paths, allowing for seamless communication between different ASs.
Exchange of Routing Information:
BGP facilitates the exchange of routing information between neighboring routers within the same AS and across different ASs. Routers running BGP share updates about network reachability, including information about network prefixes, AS paths, and associated metrics. BGP ensures that routers stay updated with the latest routing information, enabling them to make informed decisions when determining the best path for data transmission. This exchange of routing information is crucial for maintaining an accurate and up-to-date view of the network topology.
Path Filtering and Policy Control:
BGP offers extensive capabilities for path filtering and policy control, allowing network administrators to exercise fine-grained control over the flow of traffic within their network. By applying routing policies and filters, BGP enables administrators to influence the selection of routes based on criteria such as prefix length, community tags, or route preference. This level of control empowers network operators to manage traffic, optimize performance, and enforce security policies, ensuring efficient resource utilization and safeguarding the network against potential threats.
Fault Detection and Network Resilience:
BGP plays a crucial role in detecting network faults and ensuring network resilience. BGP routers exchange keepalive messages to continuously monitor the health and availability of neighboring routers. If a router fails to receive keepalive messages within the specified interval, it can infer a network failure and take appropriate actions, such as rerouting traffic or establishing alternate paths. BGP's ability to detect and react to network failures helps maintain network stability, minimize downtime, and ensure uninterrupted connectivity for end-users.
Interdomain Peering and Transit Relationships:
BGP facilitates interdomain peering and transit relationships between autonomous systems. Internet service providers (ISPs) and large networks use BGP to negotiate and establish peering agreements, enabling them to exchange traffic directly without relying on third-party intermediaries. BGP also enables ISPs to provide transit services, where they forward traffic between ASs that are not directly connected. These peering and transit relationships form the foundation of the global internet infrastructure, fostering efficient data exchange and connectivity across diverse networks.
Border Gateway Protocol (BGP) serves as the backbone of the internet, enabling efficient routing, traffic management, and network stability. Its functions encompass path selection, routing information exchange, path filtering, fault detection, and facilitating interdomain peering and transit relationships. By performing these vital functions, BGP ensures the seamless operation of the internet, supporting the continuous flow of data and enabling connectivity on a global scale. Network administrators and engineers rely on BGP to build robust and scalable networks, contributing to the success and reliability of the modern internet ecosystem.
https://youtu.be/z0dyCuJjfzw
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https://pobb.in/RuCsOK3m54fL
So I've been investing everything I farmed on this LA build. I am satisfied with the defenses (I rarely die in juiced 100% delirious maps) because most things die before they touch me.
What should I focus on improving to raise my damage even further? Budget is 50+ divines, but I'll be farming for a while. I don't think I'll make enough currency for another mirror item though, it took me 2 weeks to farm enough to mirror vengeance fletch.
I was thinking of getting an extremely good ring and mirror it with kalandra's touch, however that may be a bit too expensive to craft / buy.

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